‘Road to Asu Coffee Fest’ is a five-part storytelling series by The Asunción Times, leading up to the lively Asu Coffee Fest, Paraguay’s premier coffee celebration on July 12 and 13 2025. Guided by Sol and Diego, two passionate coffee enthusiasts exploring the heart of Paraguay’s specialty coffee scene, this series combines exclusive one-on-one interviews, and experiential storytelling. Join Sol Orrabalis in Episode 4: The story of Mary Jung, a South Korean woman who has spent ten years redefining coffee standards in Asunción.
The aroma, the warmth of the space, and the lingering taste in Mary’s Coffee House speak of something deeply personal. The café in the Villa Morra neighbourhood of Asunción was founded by Mary Jung, a South Korean woman who opened her doors in 2015, after returning to Paraguay with a vision shaped by life and loss.
Mary is 37 years old and moved from South Korea to Paraguay when she was seven. Her family relocated in the mid-1990s, fleeing South Korea’s economic crisis. Encouraged by an aunt living in Paraguay, her parents saw the country as a place with better opportunities. They settled in Luque, where they were the only Korean family in the area. Mary has since built her life and career in this adopted homeland.
Discovering the world of ‘barismo’
From a young age, she felt drawn to cooking and hospitality. She often helped her mother prepare meals and serve guests with coffee.
“Cooking was how we showed love,” Mary says. Though she once dreamed of becoming a chef, coffee became the focus of her professional path. It was a way to connect with others through flavour, comfort, and care.
In 2012, Mary returned to Korea with her mother, who was receiving treatment for stomach cancer. During this time, she discovered the world of barismo, the art and science of brewing high-quality coffee. She completed a Coffee Master certification and later worked in Colombia. There, Mary visited coffee farms and deepened her knowledge through further training and hands-on experience.
Following a shared dream
After her mother’s passing in 2015, Mary decided to follow their shared dream and open a café. “It was a turning point,” she says. Faced with options in Korea, Colombia, the USA, and Paraguay, she chose Paraguay. “Our memories are here, and the specialty coffee scene was just starting.”
Mary searched for a location in Luque or Asunción to elevate coffee standards, until she saw a “For Rent” sign on Eusebio Lillo Robles Street. The building had the right structure, history, and feel. She rang that night, and within two days, the contract was signed. Then came the hard part: municipal permits, health regulations, importing Colombian coffee, and registering the brand.
“It took years and lots of patience, but we managed it,” she recalls.
The café’s name came from a friend’s suggestion: simple, warm, and personal. From day one, Mary faced the challenge of educating customers about specialty coffee. “People did not understand why an espresso was small or why coffee could be cold,” she says about her goal to elevate coffee standards. Her job became one of explanation and cultural translation, gently breaking local expectations and habits. “I was not just serving drinks, I was teaching through every cup.”
Culture, science, and art
Mary sees her work as professional, not merely technical. “Coffee is not just a drink, it is culture, science, and art,” she explains. She often describes the difference between commercial and specialty coffee. “Commercial coffee is strong, cheap, and quick, but not always kind to the body. Specialty coffee is balanced and, over time, much more beneficial.”
She works with MonteBrujas Káva, a high-quality Colombian bean with citrus, chocolate, and vanilla notes. Every barista at Mary’s Coffee House receives thorough training. “Even those with experience must understand why we do things in our own way.”
Technique is important, but so is respect for the product, and the people who grow it.
Mary has seen the coffee scene in Paraguay grow enormously in the past decade. “Today, there are many cafés, but quality and training still need improvement,” she believes.
She advocates for more specialised roles: roasters, tasters, and baristas with formal knowledge. “The next step is raising standards across the industry, not just opening more cafés.” That, she believes, is how true change happens.
Elevating coffee standards: ‘Hard work, every day’
This year marks the tenth anniversary of Mary’s Coffee House, and she plans to celebrate it with meaningful events. Rather than expand, she has reduced her branches from five to two, choosing quality over quantity.
To her, owning a café is not glamorous or easy. “People imagine it is all nice smells and latte art, but it is hard work every day.” Mary reminds aspiring café owners that being hands-on is part of the job. “You are the barista, cleaner, manager, cashier, everything.” Her advice is to plan carefully, stay realistic, and always know your long-term goals.
For Mary, it is all about quality. “Once you try specialty coffee, you do not go back.”
For more information, check out Mary’s Coffee House Paraguay on Instagram.
Also read ‘Road to Asu Coffee Fest’ Episode 3: Alejandro Murcia And Rafa Díaz: Two Baristas Brewing A Coffee Revolution
