While many around the world associate Christmas with cold weather, snow-covered pine trees, and roasted chestnuts, in Paraguay the festive spirit arrives with summer heat, fireworks, and tables overflowing with local dishes. Whether you are a newcomer spending your first Navidad here, or a Paraguayan who has recently got back to the country, this guide will help you understand and enjoy the season like a local.
Nochebuena: The main celebration takes place on 24 December
In Paraguay, the main Christmas celebration takes place on 24 December, known as Nochebuena. Families gather in the evening to enjoy traditional dishes, exchange gifts, and watch fireworks. Families begin preparations early in the day, cooking, cleaning, and dressing in festive colours such as red, white, and green.
By 21:00 or 22:00, the celebration begins with dinner and small fireworks for children. But the highlight of the night is the fireworks show, which begins exactly at midnight. At that moment, people exchange hugs, raise their glasses, open presents, and watch the sky light up with bursts of colour and sound. The Christmas meal, enjoyed late at night, typically includes asado, ensalada rusa, and vitel toné, often eaten with pan chip, a small bread roll especially popular during the holiday. Pan dulce and clericó are common desserts, accompanied by drinks such as cider, beer, soft drinks, or juice.
Travelling for Christmas: Family first, but plan for traffic
It is very common for people living in Asunción to travel to the countryside to celebrate Christmas with extended family, particularly grandparents. Many Paraguayans return to their hometowns, and rural houses often host dozens of relatives, making this one of the most anticipated family reunions of the year.
This tradition, however, leads to significant traffic, particularly on major roads such as Ruta 1, Ruta 2 and Ruta 3. If you intend to travel during the holiday period, plan to:
- Leave before 24 December, ideally on the 22nd or 23rd.
- Return after 25 December, preferably on the 26th or 27th, to avoid peak traffic congestion.
Bus terminals also experience increased demand, so travellers should purchase intercity tickets in advance. In addition, petrol stations, convenience stores and supermarkets may close early on the 24th, so be sure to plan ahead.
Attending mass and praying together
Although Christmas in Paraguay is full of laughter and celebration, religious traditions remain meaningful in many households. A significant number of families attend Christmas Eve Mass, (Misa de Nochebuena), often accompanied by children and grandparents.
Before the Christmas meal, it is customary for families to pray together. This quiet moment gives thanks for the year, remembers absent loved ones, and offers blessings for the future. It is a thoughtful pause before the night’s more lively activities begin.
Decorations and traditions
In contrast to the snowy forests and fresh-cut pine trees common elsewhere, Paraguayan households usually decorate their homes with artificial Christmas trees, reusing them year after year. These trees are often adult-sized or smaller, depending on the household’s space and budget. Decorations include lights, handmade ornaments, garlands and sometimes miniature nativity scenes.
A much-loved tradition across the country is the “pesebre”, or nativity scene. These can be simple or elaborate, and are often displayed in front gardens or beneath the Christmas tree. Families carefully arrange figures of baby Jesus, Mary, Joseph, the three kings, shepherds, and animals, often surrounding them with straw, moss, or cotton to resemble snow. Many families build their own pesebres with materials passed down through generations.
Streets full of light and music
In urban centres such as Asunción, shopping malls, avenues and public plazas come to life with colourful lights, inflatable Santa Claus figures, and oversized Christmas trees. Popular spots like the Costanera in Asunción, Plaza Uruguaya, and Shopping del Sol attract visitors with festive displays.
Throughout December, street vendors sell fireworks, seasonal sweets and decorations, while shops play a mix of Christmas carols and Paraguayan cumbia navideña.
Practical tips for spending Christmas in Asunción
If you are new to Asunción or Paraguay in general, these tips may help you prepare:
- Shops and supermarkets close early on 24 December. It is best to complete your shopping before midday.
- Public transportation may cease operations in the evening, so arrange your travel accordingly.
- Most restaurants and shops remain closed on 25 December, with very few exceptions.
- Fireworks can be very loud and last for hours.
- If you are invited to a family celebration, it is customary to bring a small gift, dessert, or beverage as a sign of appreciation.
A holiday rooted in togetherness
In Paraguay, Christmas is about reconnecting with your roots, honouring your family, and celebrating life with warmth and sincerity. Whether you are enjoying chipa guasu beneath a starlit sky, building a pesebre in your garden, or sharing a prayer before dinner, the holiday is full of meaning and heartfelt tradition.
If this is your first Christmas in Paraguay, embrace the customs, savour the flavours, and allow yourself to be part of something special. You may arrive as a guest, but you are likely to leave feeling like family.
