In Paraguay, every June, San Juan is not just one date on the calendar; it is a beloved celebration of food, memories and joy. In Asuncion, the spirit of San Juan filled the downtown streets where, over the weekend, two fairs welcomed visitors within walking distance of one another.
A blend of tradition and innovation
From 11 AM on a chilly Saturday, smoke, manioc, and meat aromas began filling the heart of the capital. The Palmear Fair – San Juan Edition and El San Juanazo del Centro, organised by AMCHA (Association of the Movida del Centro Histórico de Asunción), came together for a joyful day of tradition.
Food, naturally, was front and centre. It brought people together to embrace old-fashioned flavours and, at the same time, explore something new. Before midday, people queued at food stalls to enjoy classic meals shared between generations. There were golden pastel mandi’o, deep-fried empanadas made of manioc dough, and stuffed with seasoned beef.
Trays of pajagua mascada, croquettes of mashed manioc and minced meat, disappeared quickly. Lastly, Mbejú, a cheesy, crisp pancake, remained a crowd favourite among both adults and children enjoying the food fair atmosphere.
(AMCHA team)
Room for change
This year’s San Juan celebrations made room for change, too, offering vegan and vegetarian options based on traditional Paraguayan ingredients. These new versions of traditional recipes demonstrated how traditions can change over time without losing the flavor of cultural identity. After their meals, visitors were treated to dessert: homemade sweets and pastries, served with fruit juice at first or cocktails, late in the evening.
The food was both comfort food and celebratory food, and together they made a welcoming atmosphere where everyone could find comfort, love, and something to remember.
A colourful, open-air setting
And while some enjoyed the food, the fair included music, dance, and crafts to round out a cultural experience in a colourful, open-air setting. Folkloric dance groups performed on outdoor stages, whirling around in brightly coloured skirts to live traditional guitar music. The cafés nearby served themed menus and passing visitors shopped at stalls vintage clothing and locally handmade goods.
The streets at the fair felt both festive and familiar and resembled somewhere in the past and present located in the centre of Asunción.
Families and friends played traditional games, laughing together as people raced in sacks during the bag race (carrera vosa). Some adults were dodging the burning bull (toro candil) and burning ball (pelota tata) while other were joining forces to grab the surprises hidden in the slippery trunk (yvyra syi). These games, still played with joy today, carried a warm sense of nostalgia into the digital age.
Music and memories under the stars
As the sun set behind colonial rooftops, crowds gathered at Plaza del Cabildo to enjoy the final performances of the night. Under glowing lights, Las Paraguayas, an all-female band, took the stage and delivered harmonies full of energy and strength. They were followed by Villagrán, who brought an upbeat set that got even shy listeners move their heads in the plaza. Finally, Juan Cancio Barreto closed the night with guitar melodies, as timeless as the buildings surrounding the plaza audience.
Open doors at historic landmarks
San Juan night also opened the doors to historic landmarks across downtown for special tours and cultural experiences. CAPASA (Cañas Paraguayas S.A.) offered tastings and guided visits that blended heritage with traditional sugarcane spirits and storytelling. The Municipal Theatre Ignacio A. Pane welcomed visitors to explore its elegant interior and learn about its artistic significance. These places added depth and context to the night’s celebration, grounding the joy in shared memory and local history.
By the end of the night, the city buzzed with laughter, music, and the scent of smoke still lingering in the air. Locals and travellers, young and old, came together for one of Paraguay’s most meaningful and heartfelt annual San Juan celebrations.
A tribute to tradition and togetherness
El San Juanazo del Centro and the Palmear Fair were more than events; they were a living tribute to tradition and togetherness. They proved that when traditions are shared with love and care, they always feel fresh, alive, and joyfully relevant again.
Want to attend more events these days? There are San Juan Celebrations all over Asunción! When and where to go? And for more information on the Association of the Movida del Centro Histórico de Asunción, find AMCHA on Instagram.
