The Mercado 4 is a staple of the city and an integral part of Asunción’s history. From its very humble beginning downtown to its move to the actual place in occupies now, the “Market #4” has become an essential part of the identity of Paraguayans and Asunceno’s – the inhavitants of Asunción. This bustling market continues to represent the spirit of resilience, diversity, and community in a prime location of the capital. Let us look more in detail at how the Mercado 4 has shaped Asunceno’s life by looking at its history and learning from the Paraguayans working there today.
The Mercado 4 started downtown as Mercado Guasu in the early 1810s. It was located at the actual Plaza Juan O’Leary, with one big building holding spaces for many merchants selling fruits and vegetables. Around 1913, it was moved beside the Plaza de la Democracia on the government’s order. The administration of President Eduardo Schaerer decided to demolish the building formerly used by the merchants. After almost 30 years of uncertainty, the government of the Republic of Paraguay started a project to create municipal markets in different neighbourhoods of the city. Between 1940 and 1942, the government was looking for plots of land for new markets and moving the Mercado Guasu out of the area. They took lands at the corner of the actual Avenida Pettirossi and Avenida Eusebio Ayala, Avenida Perú, and Avenida José Rodríguez Gaspar de Francia, also named Ruta PY01. The area was not what it is today, being mostly empty plots of land ready for buildings to be constructed. Some had been selling their fruits and vegetables in the area informally since the early 1930s, making it the perfect location for the Mercado 4. By decree of President Higinio Morínigo, the Mercado 4 was officially created on the 22nd of March, 1942, and was formally opened on the 7th of May, 1942.
Over time, the market grew due to the space available in the area, and people started to live around, which led to the Barrio Pettirossi becoming the most important neighbourhood apart from the downtown ones until the creation of bigger buildings around 30 years ago in Villa Morra, Recoleta, and Ycuá Satí. People working in the Mercado 4 have seen a lot in the last 82 years as, despite its success, the market has faced numerous challenges, such as civil war, dictatorship, and big fire. Even with these, the only time in its history it had a food shortage was during the 1947 Paraguayan Civil War. However, they always remained together, showing resilience and helping each other. Now, the merchants are one big united family.
While the market initially focused on agricultural products, its role quickly expanded to include a wide variety of goods, ranging from food to textiles, handicrafts, household items, jewelry, electronics and mechanical items. Over time, it gained recognition as one of Paraguay’s most diverse and vibrant marketplaces. The Mercado 4 has a “gallery system.” Each gallery sells something specific, while the sellers just outside can sell what they want, mainly food and clothing. Let us look at what they offer:
- Galería Santo Domingo: Clothes
- Galería Pettirossi: Clothes
- Galería Bonanza: Beauty Products & Jewelry
- Galería San Miguel: Electronics
- Galería San Antonio: Household Appliances
- Galería M4: Mixed Use
You can find everything you want in the Mercado 4, and like in most markets of the world, you can always negotiate the prices of your desired item, especially if you have good Spanish and negotiating skills. Foreigners do not tend to buy fruits and vegetables that much, but they often buy more tropical or traditional clothing at a low price. Some others, especially men, will come to buy shoes such as Nike, Adidas, or Puma or sports jerseys at prices that cannot be matched elsewhere. It is highly recommended that you pay in cash.
Walter is a guitarist and a singer in the comedor of the Mercado 4. Photo: @canaguayo
While shopping for everything you need, you can also eat at the Mercado 4. Apart from the kiosks and stands here and there, they have an official food court, or comedor in Spanish. You can eat every Paraguayan traditional dish from mbeju to chipa, vorí vorí, soyo, sopa paraguaya, chipa guazú, tallarines de carne, ñoquis, and many other items. Each food stand has its own picnic table in front of it for you to sit at, and the restaurant workers will either come to you or yell at you to be sure that you are their client and not the other one’s client! One good place is the Shakira, not named after the singer but rather named after the lovely owner of the stand. It is right in front of the door when you go up in the comedor. For this one or the many others around, paying in cash is recommended, as most do not have an electronic point-of-sale (POS) machine available or working. Food costs, on average, are between 15K to 35K Guaraníes. To the highest, it means just over 4 American dollars or Euros.
One of the cooks at Shakira, located in the comedor of the Mercado 4. Photo: @canaguayo
The market is open from Monday to Saturday from around 7 AM to 6 PM. Sometimes, some merchants will open slightly before, but the generally agreed time is 7 AM. They are never open on Sundays and are closed during holidays. There is no “better time” to go, as it is always full, but it is always preferable to go before lunch to avoid the heat. You do your shopping in the morning, eat at the food court, and then leave with all the items, but also leave having had a wonderful experience at the Mercado 4! Not having enough parking spots for everyone, it is recommended that you take other means of transportation. Buses pass just in front of the market, but taking a Bolt or an Uber is even better. You can also walk around the area if you live close to it.
The people who work and operate within Mercado 4 form the backbone of the market. Vendors come from all walks of life, including rural farmers, indigenous artisans, and families that have run businesses for generations. Shops such as Frutería y Verdulería Letty and Tabaquería La Pipa, to name a few, have been there for a long time. Many of these vendors are part of Paraguay’s informal economy, meaning they operate outside the formal regulatory framework but play a crucial role in providing affordable goods and services. The market is a melting pot of different social, ethnic, and economic backgrounds. It reflects the diversity of Paraguay, with its blend of indigenous peoples, rural communities, and urban dwellers. The vendors have a strong sense of community, helping each other navigate the challenges of the market while also fostering a tight-knit, supportive environment.
Shop owners being interviewed by @kaori and @maxdni. Photos: @canaguayo
Beyond its role as a commercial space, Mercado 4 holds deep cultural significance for Paraguay. It is a place where the traditions of Paraguay come alive. The market serves as a cultural melting pot where visitors can experience authentic Paraguayan food, music, and crafts. It also plays a key role in preserving indigenous crafts, such as ñandutí lacework, which local artisans sell. For many, Mercado 4 is not just a marketplace but a symbol of Paraguayan identity, where history, culture, and community intersect. It represents the country’s ability to adapt and thrive in the face of challenges, whether they be economic, political, or social.
The Mercado 4 also had international recognition when the movie 7 Cajas, or 7 Boxes in English, was filmed there. This 2012 thriller is available on Amazon with Celso Franco, Victor Sosa, and Lali González as the main actors. Since then, multiple famous people from around the world, mostly singers and actors, have been to the market while being in Asunción to perform. It is now an unavoidable stop in Paraguay!
Today, the Mercado 4 is more than just a place to shop; it is a living, breathing representation of Paraguayan life. It is a marketplace that showcases the country’s agricultural produce, traditional crafts, and food while acting as a space for social interaction and community building. The market’s energy, with its diverse offerings and vibrant atmosphere, makes it one of Asunción’s most beloved and iconic landmarks. Mercado 4’s journey from a small informal market downtown to a sprawling commercial and cultural centre in Barrio Pettirossi is a testament to the resilience and creativity of its people. It is a place where history, commerce, and community come together. Despite the challenges it faces, it continues to thrive as one of the most important and dynamic locations in Asunción. A place you should definitely visit as it has everything you are looking for, at a cheap price, and, you will meet the friendliest people in the world!
Mercado 4 Key details
Location: Barrio Pettirossi
Best Transportation: Bolt/Uber
Open: Monday to Saturday
Hours: 7 AM to 6 PM
Preferable Way of Payment: Cash
Advice: Avoid Displaying Your Wealth
