Imagine navigating the tranquil waters of the Paraguay River. When suddenly, on the horizon, you catch a glimpse of what seems to be a small castle on top of a rock. Surrounded by nothing, but water. What is this mysterious building, and who built it? Who lived there? What is the story behind this place that, as of today, attracts thousands from all around the world? Well, this is Castillo el Peñon. The Asuncion Times set out to uncover its secrets.
The meaning of ”Peñon”
A peñon is a big mass of elevated rocks, on which the castle in Limpio, just an hour north of Asunción, stands until today. Some historians suggest that the rock formation appeared after a great volcanic activity hit Asunción and its surroundings, many years ago.
Although there is some debate about whether Castillo el Peñon belonged to the Municipality of Limpio, or Villa Hayes just on the other side of the Paraguay River, today the historical place is taken care of by the city of Limpio. Where locals offer boat rides along the side of the river, to visit the historical monument.
Large crowds visiting
Hernan Ibarra, one of the boatman who transports visitors from the coast to the castle, shared some words with us. “People from all around the world come to see the castle especially during the Jacare Yrupe (Lilly pad) season,” says Ibarra, whose boat is called “El Pirata” (The Pirate). “There is always a large crowd waiting their turn, especially on weekends.”
Upgrade projects at the riverside area, including the construction of a pier, are underway. The initiatives aim to improve boat access and boost local tourism.
The story of Castillo el Peñon
The true origin of the Castillo el Peñon is unknown, even to this day, Although local legends say that the castle in the river was built by Captain Lázaro Aranda, who was known to be a ‘Casanova’, and had many lovers and children over the years. He supposedly built the castle to have a private place to “hide” in the 1930s.
Another popular tale is one where the captain’s children had a serious disease, and he built this castle to quarantine his child from the world.
The building has all the basic amenities, including a living room, a balcony, and a rest area. Even a small barbecue area is present, as well as a beacon at the top of the structure to help boats locate it, and prevent accidents.
From hideout, to light house
During the 1930s, as Paraguay was heading towards the Chaco war, a problem arose. The river was most used as an immediate route of transporting soldiers, and the Peñon became a threat in the darkness of the night. Fearing an incident, the Peñon was subsequently modified: a kerosene lamp was placed atop the castle, and a person was tasked with transporting it by canoe each day at sunset and returning it at sunrise to refill.
The new Peñon lighthouse soon became an indispensable point of reference. But after the war had ended and the political climate of the country changed, the Peñon was abandoned and remained like that for many years. Until it was repaired and restored by the Municipality of Limpio.
Just one boat ride away
Today, the Castillo del Peñon is a popular tourist spot, attracting people from all around the world. The boat ride price range is Gs. 10.000 to Gs. 15.000, and available every day on the coast of the Paraguay River, at Piquete Cue, in the city of Limpio. The tour provides approximately 15 minutes at the castle, sufficient for exploration and photography, plus an additional 10 to 15 minutes for crossing the river.
The Castle is recognised as an Asset of Cultural Heritage Value by Senatur, and an Asset of Historical and Cultural importance by the City of Limpio. The National Secretariat of Culture declared Castillo del Peñon an Asset of Cultural Heritage, on their resolution n° 150/2018.
Castillo el Peñon: standing firm to this day
Though the true background story remains a mystery, one thing is undeniable. The castle in the river stays strong to this day as a reminder of Paraguay’s history, and keeps amazing everyone who visits. With an amazing site, and a sense of melancholy that make us curious about the stories that occurred in this small house, all those years ago.
