The declaration of the ancestral meat preparation method so’o josopy as a cultural treasure by the Paraguayan Senate, sparked a wave of pride among citizens and cultural advocates alike last month. This initiative was driven by a man, whose dedication span over five years: Mario Campos, a Paraguayan chef who rediscovered the ancestral meat preparation method, that involves pounding the beef in a wooden mortar (angu’a in Guaraní language).
In his effort to safeguard and promote Guaraní culinary essence, Mario began to pay attention to everyday customs, searching for elements worth protecting, recognising, and elevating. During this process, he encountered a traditional Paraguayan dish: guiso de carne (meat stew), typically made with rice, vegetables, and tomato-sauced beef.
“To my surprise, the meat in the dish was so’o piru (dried lean beef). Its texture, however, was unappealing to me,” expresses Mario (53), who is also founder of Ña Poshó, a gastronomic project dedicated to preserving traditional flavours expresses to The Asunción Times.
Rediscovering so’o josopy
Driven by culinary curiosity, Mario investigates further and rediscovers so’o josopy, a meat preparation method that involves pounding the beef in a wooden mortar (angu’a). This ancestral technique impressed him with the tenderness it produces. As a result, he immerses himself in the mission of having so’o josopy recognised as a culturally significant tradition.
“By sharing this process, I believe the new generations will learn to value it,” he explains.
Angu’a: Paraguay’s traditional mortar
The Paraguayan angu’a is considered one of the earliest traditional kitchen tools. Originating in both indigenous and Criollo cultures, the wooden utensil is commonly used in households and countryside ranches. It serves various culinary purposes: grinding maize, wheat, and especially pounding meat for incorporation into soyo, a classic Paraguayan soup.
Despite its deep-rooted culinary origins, so’o josopy can be included in a wide range of dishes beyond soups, such as croquettes, empanadas, or any creative preparation envisioned by the cook.
A movement built on community and commitment
Although Mario’s passion fueled the fight for national regocnition, significant contributions came from other Paraguayans, notably from historians and cultural advocates. The approval journey spans five years.
“There were days when the effort felt futile,” Mario reflects. However, one morning at Ña Poshó, a group of young people arrived. Moved by Mario’s enthusiasm and purpose, they join the cause to preserve the nation’s culinary tradition.
Together with Mario and his mother, the group produces a video highlighting not only the significance of the tradition but also the details of the process. Mario’s mother, dressed in traditional Paraguayan attire, serves as the face of the audiovisual material. She demonstrates the steps involved in pounding meat with the angu’a and presents final dishes as examples.
This heartfelt visual presentation plays a decisive role in swaying public and political opinion, ultimately leading to the official declaration.
Recognition at national level
The support of Senator Rafael Filizzola and the President of the Senate, Bacilio “Bachi” Núñez, proves instrumental. On Tuesday, 17 June 2025, the Paraguayan Senate issues Declaration No. 294, which officially recognises “carne pisada (so’o josopy)”, and its preparation with the mortar (angu’a) as a national food of Paraguay, and a cultural asset of interest.
“The day I heard it was approved, I cried for an hour and said: ‘Yes, we can’,” expresses Mario, recalling the emotional moment.
The declaration consists of three articles affirming that:
- The food is a traditional element that forms an integral part of Paraguayan cultural and gastronomic identity,
- Its preparation involves the traditional mortar, or angu’a,
- The National Secretariat of Culture is urged to take necessary measures to formalise its designation as an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Paraguay
Furthermore, the declaration calls for the documentation and registration of all components involved in the preparation process, including sun-dried beef (so’o piru), which plays a significant role in the tradition. In accordance with Paraguay’s National Culture Law, the Secretariat of Culture is tasked with overseeing and implementing relevant cultural policies.
A legacy still in motion
Today, Mario’s Ña Poshó remains one of the few establishments in Paraguay actively preparing dishes that include so’o josopy. Following the official declaration, there is growing hope that this meat preparation method will be adopted by more traditional restaurants throughout the country.
Mario is not only Paraguayan by birth, but also deeply connected to the country on a spiritual level. His years living abroad, first in Spain, then the United States, provided valuable perspective. Upon returning to Paraguay, he becomes increasingly aware of the potential erosion of the Guaraní identity. This concern lead to the development of Ña Poshó, the gastronomic project dedicated to preserving traditional flavours. More than a shop selling empanadas, Ña Poshó became a tribute to cultural legacy.
Having relocated to Paraguay with the intent of leaving a legacy, Mario commits fully to a cause he considers essential: sharing Paraguay’s beautiful and often overlooked cultural history with the world.
“I dedicated all that time, because I came to Paraguay to create a legacy. This is part of our essence, and the world needs to know that Paraguay has a beautiful history.”
UNESCO next?
Yet, Mario’s mission continues. He now advocates for so’o josopy to be recognised by the Ministry of Culture as intangible cultural heritage, with ambitions to eventually present the case to UNESCO. Although the global organisation may seem intimidating, Mario remains undeterred. Determined and proud, he envisions international appreciation for this emblematic culinary tradition.
“This recognition is a step forward, but the ultimate goal is to ensure we never forget our essence. Everything that has been acknowledged so far is exactly that, our essence.”
